HIGHLANDER Sword Report: Shinto Katana by ChenChao-po through C.A.S. Iberia

Made by ChenChao-po (a.k.a. "Paul Chen") in China, with a street price of US$499, this sword is by far the most accurate replica of a Japanese katana we have seen to date in this price range. We stress the word replica as this beautiful weapon falls short in some areas that the prospective buyer should be aware of. Further, this sword is in greatest danger of being misadvertised, as not only is the the information provided by the sales sheets from the wholesaler inaccurate, but websites and other retailers are adding their own information. This can only hurt the maker's reputation in the end, as the katana is played up into something it is not. However, marketing aside, we feel positively about this sword.

First and foremost, contrasted with stainless steel replicas that bear a lot of "flash" and "flare" (almost in direct compensation for their very poor stainless steel blades that feature either acid-etched or machine-ground temper lines), this non-conspicuous katana makes a silent statement in its endeavor for accuracy, and achieves this objective far more closely than those made in Taiwan or Spain. However, connoiseurs of fine antique katanas might find this effort a little crude for their tastes.

The low alloy high carbon steel blade is more realisitc than its chrome-laced competitors (as stainless steel contains chromium, which though gives it its stainless property, also robs the blade of molecular strength). It features a temper line (commonly known as hamon but more accurately referred to as yakiba) that while falls shy of the intricate beauty of those of traditionally made Japanese katanas (which, in turn, makes it less attractive to a serious Japanese sword conneiseur or collector), it is distinct enough to make this sword stand out and please a beginning sword collector. It is also more beautiful than many World War II gunto swords that are made of factory steel and that have very basic and lackluster clay temper lines (some were even acid-etched). The temper line here is a o-midari, which means "confused pattern" as opposed to the more romantic and poetic "turbulent sea" description found in much sales literature on various websites. Click here for a professional breakdown of the hamon (temper line).

The manufacture of the Shinto Katana is often misadvertised. The wholesaler states that it is AISI 1095 steel forge-folded over a core. One business studied the sword and advertised the same, omiting information on the core and providing more accurate Rockwell readings. Yet another claims they are "railway track thermally cycled in Siberia for the last 40 years." It is plausible that railway tracks or spikes were used, which are actually sources of AISI 1050 - far more ideal for the job and metallurgically more similar to traditional Japanese steel than the more expensive and scarce 1095 if you're purchasing it in China!

The furnishings and construction of the hilt or handle adhere to traditional construction, as the handle is real wood and not cast plastic, and the partial tang is of the same shape and length as those of real Japanese katanas. Understand that the Western insistence of "full tangs" in swords does not apply to traditional Japanese katanas, as katana tangs are not only sufficiently strong, but a tang too long can add to unnecessary weight to a sword - and deprive you of much needed maneuvarability. Further, if well made, the wood of the handle and the tang serve and function as one, in both impact absorption and movement.

The handle features a cotton wrap which will not last as long as a silk wrap, under heavy use. However, the wrap is tighter and better done than all the stainless steel wallhangers I've evaluated. The tsuba, or guard, is detailed beautifully and is non-abbrasive to the skin.

The feel of the katana as a weapon is very pleasing. It is a light sword and feels very comely to the hands. In addition, the handle is of generous length (approximately 10-11 inches) for excellent maneuverability without being awkward and in the way.

There is also some misinformation in the sales literature accompanying this sword on most websites. It is stated that the way to tell if a katana is real is that the temper line's pattern is identical on either side of the blade, proving that the temper has gone through the entire thickness of the blade. While the hamon does go all the way through the blade, the temper lines in traditional Japanese antique katanas do not have the same identical pattern on either sides - in fact, most antique katanas are made to show different motifs on either side!

The only major downside to this sword, possibly, is its durability as a weapon. The information provided to C.A.S. Iberia states that the cutting edge is of 60 Rc (Rockwell hardness) but the spine is an unfortunately low 20 Rc. Traditional Japanese swords have an edge in the high 50's and a spine in the mid to high 40 Rc's. In this regard, the Shinto may be considered in having too soft a spine and a potentially brittle edge. However, one trading company of Japanese cultural products also sells the Shinto, and were able to use it to successfully cut through bamboo. Hank Reinhardt of Museum Replicas Limited tested one to have a spine in the high 30's and the edge to be 62-64Rc. Thus be prepared for variances. Some may be in your favor.

The question is: How durable is this sword? Keep in mind that a katana is first and foremost a cutting weapon - not a chopping weapon. Even with traditionally made or antique katanas, these were not chopping weapons with magical and mystical properties. They were designed to cut through flesh and, yes, bone. When used properly, the Shinto katana can potentially deliver that performance. If abused, the Shinto katana can chip, crack or break like any other sword. Thus, some studying on what swords can or cannot do before you destroy your investment, as Hollywood is a proponent !

However, the sword is very affordable, again, being in the aforementioned price range. Because it is a plain carbon steel (low alloy), the sword, like those of traditional manufacture, are subject to rusting and thus require oiling. Thus, a traditional maintenance kit is included, along with instructions. The kit includes traditional oil with which the sword blade must be treated to prevent rusting. Real swords perform better than stainless steel swords, but require oiling.

If you end up being displeased with the blade, it is possible to have a higher-end Bob Engnath blade made as an upgrade, while making use of the Shinto katana's present handle and fixtures. Click here for more details in this regard.

In summary, keep in mind that though the blade's specifications fall short of ideal, it does not mean that the (official stat of) 20 Rc spine is in any danger of being cut through. (The average thickness of a sword spine is 0.25", and no matter how hard or sharp an edge your opponent's sword is, he won't be able to cut through - not even partway. At most, he'll leave a nick or two.) Moreover, the 20 Rc reading isn't possible, because annealed (hot rolled) 1095 steel is manufactured at 31 Rockwells - you can't make it softer than that. Thus, Hank Reinhardt's reading of 35 Rc is more probable a reading, and would indicate that the spine is virtually unhardened.

The only cause for concern is that the soft back has a higher risk of being bent under abuse - as it has no "spring" to resist bending. Thus, an improper cut can result in a severely bent blade. However, it's not easy like bending a soda can.

Any sword - traditional katanas included - will bend or break if abused. Even the very best of katanas ever made were not made to be indestructable. They are first and foremost cutting weapons. And, as a cutting weapon, the Shinto katana has its merits. Perhaps it is not ideal for taking into battle, but is a good value for practicing katas and practicing sword cutting the proper way - for which it is definitely good enough for those purposes. But even so, you must use the sword correctly.

Blade: 28-1/4", Overall: 39-1/4"
Weight: (with scabbard) 2.80 lbs. / 1.26 kg
(without scabbard) 2.10 lbs. / 0.96 kg

Other HSG Articles

Shinto Katana vs. a Bob Engnath Blade - this article describes how a Shinto katana compares with a superior Bob Engnath katana blade.

A Professional Breakdown on the Shinto Katana's Hamon It's beautiful but how beautiful? Here is a perspective from a Japanese sword polisher's viewpoint.

Upgrading the Shinto Katana - An article on upgrading the Shinto katana to an Engnath blade.

 

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